1) Functional Devices RIB2401D DPDT relay
2) Weatherproof 1-gang deep junction box
3) 12V linear actuator, 8? extension, IP65 rated w/ mounting brackets (you may want a different size for your particular door/setup
4) Wemo wifi plug
Basically the secret is in the double pole double throw relay: you configure it so that it receives positive 12v when activated, and negative 12v when off. The actuator has internal limit switches so it turns itself off at full extension.
Once the Wemo is configured and hooked up to Alexa, you can have it automatically turn on at sunrise and turn off at sunset.
With the recent rise in COVID-19 activities, I decided it was time to resurrect my page sniffer.
Continuing my documentation on building this Pi cluster. If you want to read the full thing, start at Part 1 – hardware.
I’m going to document this out as my personal reference, and also for anybody else who starts thinking about doing something like this. This page was helpful in figuring out what I was doing.
Last week, I decided that I needed to learn Kubernetes. Basically, I’ve been reading a lot about the development going on in next generation networking – and I keep running into Kubernetes as the backend for all of the management systems.
I don’t really know much about Kubernetes. It’s some kind of container management system, and seems to front-end docker, but that’s pretty much where I stop right now.
In general, when I want to know more about something – the best way for me to learn is to dig in and start using it. So – I’m going to start building and working with one from scratch.
One of the things that the Tysons Apple store flagged on my laptop during diagnostics for the LCD replacement was the battery. I hadn’t really noticed it before, but sure enough – when I checked it was showing 75% functionality, 500 some charge cycles, and “service battery” warning. And yea, in the following month it seemed to be down to about an hour functional battery life.
Having been through the Apple store attempted repair once before, I wasn’t going down that option, so I started looking for replacements.
It was hard to find anything with a lot of good reviews. The most popular Amazon choice has a number of reviews like this one, talking about the battery arriving totally dead and MacBook refusing to charge it.
I ended up purchasing the ANGELWEL replacement battery kit for $37.
Back in October, my laptop screen started acting funny after a business trip. It didn’t take any major hits or anything that I’m aware of – but it was showing every other line as black. Then it started having every two second freeze and flicker. I plugged in the HDMI port, and everything showed fine there – so I thought it was probably the LCD assembly itself.
The Reston store was booked for the next two weeks and not accepting appointments, so I went to the Tysons Mall store.
Once I got there, I demonstrated the error, they ran some tests, and told me it would be about $580 to replace. Gave them a sigh, told them ok. They took it in the back to try reseating the LCD cable and in general ‘check it out’.
The lady who was helping me came back about five minutes later. She said that Apple wouldn’t repair this out of warranty laptop because it had a non-Apple solid state drive, and according to Apple, such devices weren’t ‘user replacable’. She said that if I could go home and find the original drive and put it back in the laptop, then Apple would do the repair. She also said that is was dirty, there was some weird gummy material inside and two screws were missing. I pointed out that dust is pretty common inside a four year old laptop, and not much you can do since Apple discourages anybody from even opening the case. I started getting a “ugh, dirty laptop user” vibe from here, and was pretty ready to go.
Well, my 15″ Retina Macbook Pro is hitting it’s fourth year with me, and it’s now starting to show it’s age. I’m really not that impressed with either the specs, look, or price of the newly announced Macbook so I’ve had to do some repairs. I’ll make posts about those here.
Also, I purchased the 1st Generation Retina MacBook Pro – and man it was buggy.
List of issues:
1) Screen Ghosting. Took it back to the Apple store and had a new screen put on within a month of purchase.
2) Flickering display. Took it back to the Apple store, and they replaced the LCD and the main board.
3) Non-functioning USB. As soon as I got it home from the Apple store from the second repair, the right side USB port wasn’t working.
4) Extremely hot charging port. As in, smelled of something burning. Touched it with my hand, and it seared a little flat spot into my index finger. This time, Apple did a whole replacement ‘capture for analysis’ as they were concerned it was a ‘customer safety’ issue. They gave me a new laptop after that, and moved my original serial number to the new device.
Also, I made one minor upgrade – replaced the 256GB SSD on the motherboard with a 960GB 3rd party SSD. That will play into the story later.
I’m spending a month in Kaua’i, and thanks to some extremely generous friends, lodging is covered – while cashing in some of the last decade of air miles covers the flight.
They used this to wrap up Childhood’s End, and it was a nice choice.
For some reason, my windows server wouldn’t talk to one of my network devices. It would talk to all the others, but not this one. I tried changing the ip address of the device, and even swapped it out for a similar device of a different model and manufacturer. Still no dice. When I looked closer, I saw that the ip address of the device wasn’t in the arp table on the windows server, so I tried to manually add it.
arp -s IP.Address Mac.Address
Error message, you don’t have sufficient privileges.
Ok, so let’s try this in CMD as Administrator
Error message, permission denied.
A quick google search, and I found that I need to use netsh instead.
netsh interface ip add neighbors "Network card name here" "Gateway.IP.goes.here" "MAC-address-of-gateway-with-dash-here"
bam! Ping and network connectivity fixed. The WHY of this happening is still a mystery however.